I have gone through many trial and error runs to improve or modify my trailer. Thanks go to both you as well as Devin for information regarding the seals. I have done all the mods you have with the addition of a couple more that I will list below.

Here are the things I have done to my trailer. It’s pseudo ghetto-fabulous but I am really happy. The modifications I have done were to cater to carry one or two motorcyles as well as have multiple set ups for different motorcyles and such. I had the biggest problem with electrical ground, wires getting ripped, and my trailer licence plate getting ripped.

Lighting/Electrical Ground/Wires getting ripped–

I completely scrapped the trailer lights that came with it and bought magnetic towing lights from Harbor Freight (part # 67455 or 66186 for the LED option). I took off the lights and the L brackets. I simply put the lights on the trailer (since they are magnetic) and routed the wires that connects both lights together underneath the trailer frame/beam. I bunched the wires together by wrapping them in electrical tape. I then used the metal clips that came with trailer originally to hold the wires in place as it runs underneath the trailer frame/beams. The magnets alone will not be enough to move the lights, so I wrapped many loops safety wire to go in between the outer holes that were there originally there. Ive had this setup for almost 2 years not and it has never failed me yet!!! The rest of the long wires from the magnetic towing lights that will connect to the car I bunch them up together in electrical tape also all the way to the 4 pin connector. I made hanging loops for the now bunched wire to come in and out of easily by using zip ties that went around the existing drilled holes underneath the trailer. I also mounted additional hanging loops on the side of the trailer by using rubber insulated clamps (Item Item #67657 at Harbor Freight) and attached them by using self tapping screws. NOTE: Do not close the loop. Just mount one end so the clamps are open. So now all I have to do when guiding the wires is feed them through my cable tie loops, existing stake clamps and rubber insulated clamps so it runs on the right side of the trailer. So now instead of feeding and fumbling the wires to give it slack when folding the trailer–I just simply unplug the connector from my car and just coil the wire up and velcro loop it secure and fold it. Hopefully I didnt confuse anyone too much. Its a lot easier than it sounds. This was the best mod that fixed a majority of my problems.

Trailer Licence Plate getting ripped off–

Ive had to replace my trailer plates too many times because it would just get ripped off from the wind or get folded because after a tiring day at the track I forget to bungie or use a tie town to secure the trailer when folded before bringing it upright. I found some piano hinge or door hinge in my garage and just bolted it to the bottom section of the trailer. I then drilled holes on my trailer licence plate and bolted them together. NOTE–make sure you mount the trailer plate IN FRONT of the piano hinge so you are not concealing any of the numbers or letters of your plate! Now my plate will pivot on a hinge whenever it gets windy. As for lighintg the plate at night, I found a small LED stick on light at Harbor Freight (sorry, cant find the part # online) that uses a magnet to turn on and off. They say its good for cabinets. I simply keep the magnet in my car and when its time to turn on the lights I just stick the magnet close to the light (its a small and strong magnet) close to the light to turn it on. (I also use this chance to check the hubs by touching them to make sure my bearings are not overheating).

Now I want to find a way to somehow make my aluminum bi-fold and tri-fold ramps (Item #90018 and Item #90799 at Harbor Freight) also act as fencing/sides) but can also be used to load and unload my bike. The latest idea is to have 2×4 stakes and drill holes on aluminum ramps and 2×4 stakes and use possibly cotter pins so I can secure the ramp to the stakes—and easily remove the ramp without the use of tools.

Those were the biggest things I’ve done. Here are the rest.

Tie Down Points–

I put as many eye bolts as I could on the sides of the trailer. But the best thing I did was adding E-track on the deck of my trailer. It runs along the edge of the deck on the rear half. I have a small section of e track on the middle of the deck on the front half. I may add more E-track when I may need more

Weak Frame–

This is something I took care of from the get-go. I installed the trailer at a friend’s place that also welds. We loosely assembled it and tried to make the trailer as true as possibly. (that took over an hour of loosening, tightening, pushing, pulling, etc) Once we did that I had him weld it up. Then I just removed the bolts. So now my trailer frame is more robust.

Decking–

Another thing I took care of from the get-go…GET DIAMOND PLATING!!! The cheapest source for me was at diamondlifegear.com

I was wondering if you had any ideas on why my Gateway GT5628 fails the Intel Bios Flash Utility. I have downloaded your DP0304P.iso several times and burned several times but it fails every time. I have tried removing jumper, replacing jumper, flashing with your custom file, Iflash and with nothing but keyboard, vga, cd-rom and power supply connected and it fails. Gives failure code 08X0000000000008 1234 each time. I am also hearing lots of 5-short with 1-long beep codes from time to time. I have been banging my head with this for over a week now and it is driving me insane.

Any thoughts,

Thank you,

David

As of today, right now, I would have a hard time recommending this system. We have better documentation so more of our staff has a central place to go to when there are problems and we now have a set procedure when problems arise. We still have to reboot the phones about once a month though at least there is a global reboot function now. After a recent firmware upgrade and some port changes we are starting to pick up calls every now and then with no incoming voice. There aren’t many systems that are better at a reasonable cost however. The last alternate systems we used were Ringcentral (web based, which we used before allworx) and we looked at Tribox when we were having a lot of Allworx problems. Tribox has more freedom with the phones and we still aren’t happy with our Allworx phones. They are fairly expensive, have good voice quality and poor speakerphone quality. We have a mix of 9212 and 9224 phones and would choose 9224 universally given then greater flexibility. If I switched today I might go with Tribox and Polycom phones.